TALKING THREADS : ENCHANTIMG AARI OF KASHMIR

TALKING THREADS :
ENCHANTIMG AARI WORK OF KASHMIR 

Kashmir known as the paradise on earth is not only famous for its scenic beauty but also for its beautiful art and craft. Handicraft has given Kashmir an identity globally. Kashmir is the valley of artisans ,where many arts have found their roots ,Among all the practising arts and crafts in Kashmir .Kashmir embroidery is one of them. This beautiful craft is being practised by Kashmiri craftsmanship from 15th century . Kashmiri embroidery has evolved over centuries with influence from many cultures. Designs have developed over time from the Moors, Persians, Turks and beyond. The color palettes compliment the four seasons, while the designs are inspired by science and art in nature. Kashmiri embroidery is essentially a harmonious blend of charming flowers, fruits, and birds. One type of embroidery Kashmir focuses on is called “Aari”, known as Ari Kaem locally .

Threads 

 Aari embroidery is a specialty of Kashmiri artisans who create it in fine, concentric rings of chain stitch using a special hooked needle known as ‘Aar’. Aari embroidery was introduced to Mughal rulers in the 12th century by the Persians. Legend has it that a Raffoogar (darner) named Alibaba lived in the valley of Kashmir. He was proficient in his job of stitching and mending torn clothes and spent his days doing countless stitches and bringing dead clothes to life.One day a fowl stepped on a white cloth lying around, drying on his porch. The imprints of fowl’s feet caught Alibaba’s attention and he wanted to preserve this true to nature print. He picked up a needle with a colored thread and stitched around the print, preserving it for lifetime. An all-new technique of ornamenting the fabric, which was later known by the name of ‘Kashida kaam‘ was thus invented Aari Kaem is a fascinating hook art done in silk, cotton and woolen threads. 

The hook needle used in aari kaem is the ‘aer’ and while maintaining the same quality, hook work covers a much larger area than needle work in the same amount of time. Typically done on suits and shawls Aari kaem works its colorful charm on a plain drape and inspires in it a lively ethnic appeal. 

Aari is different from other embroideries as the hook used in this is worked from beneath the cloth unlike the other embroideries wherein the work starts from the top. This movement creates loops and repetition of these loops creates the beautiful stitch pattern in striking colors and patterns. 

         ( artisan Ab Rashed works at Noorbagh)

The Genius OF SaJad Dar Sajad Dar ,an aspiring entrepreneur of Aari embroidery in the heart of Kashmir valley, in a city called Srinagar, finds solace in creating artworks out of his skill of embroidery rather than creating sellable products, A 27 year old Sajad from Noorbagh area of Srinagar city is one of the 25 aspiring entrepreneurs who received full grant from a Delhi based “Commitment to Kashmir”. Commitment to Kashmir is helping Kashmiri artisans to become entrepreneurs hence they select 25 entrepreneurs every year after screening applications. Sajad Dar has participated in Exhibitions ,he has taken training from NIFT Kashmir .Sajad is an accomplished Ari entrepreneur with an exceptional ability to shape most wondrous things .with CTok designer Gunjan jain ,Sajad is crafting the magic art with new approach ,he has developed new designs which are not only superbly carved but has a beautiful touch of kashmiriyat .his uncle who is a master artisan has taught him the basics of this art ,Sajad is an unsung hero who works meticulously to create beautiful masterpieces Sajad Dar has been exploring ways of redefining aari embroidery by changing the traditional presentation of the skill with designer Gunjan Jain.Sajad says that the ari craft is facing serious challenges as the number of artisans are decreasing day by day .Kashmir for centuries has been associated with rich arts and crafts but artists associated with art and craft are the poorest of the communities of the society”.he added. To be continued……


Writer is masters in craft management design and craft management design and entrepreneurship . Email:—–darjaveed305@gmail.com