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Crewel Embroidery kashmir





CREWEL EMBROIDERY OF KASHMIR

Dar Javed


In words of Kamla Devi Chattopadhay (Social Reformer) “It (Kashmir Embroidery) is essentially a child of landscape and bountiful nature and is, therefore, as varied in its richness, as superb in its beauty… the embroiders of this region seem so overwhelmed by natures riotous beauty that they are caught up in alluring embrace. The floral motifs with their inexhaustible display of colors, variegated birds, luscious fruits, majestic mountains, and shimmering lakes- all find a place in Kashmir Embroidery “There are many kinds of embroidery in Kashmir. Crewel Embroidery is the most common form of embroidery in Kashmir. It is remarkable even today because of the beauty of its



HOW CREWEL EMBROIDERY CAME TO INDIA (ORIGIN) 
Crewel work has a rich history, stretching at least as far back as early medieval times, influenced by exotic flora and fauna, this form enjoyed popularity in the Jacobean area, in Europe and America during 17th and 18thcen6tury. With elaborate designs and patterns, this art was common during the reign of king James 1 of England in 1500s.
It is said that crewel embroidery came to Kashmir when traders from Damascus (A city situated in the centre of the Silk Road lay at the crossroads of two trade routes one from India) came to Kashmir in 13thcentury.


Hand embroidery in Kashmir flourished when the ruler Zain ulAbideen Shah invited artists from Iran to train the local people in different crafts. Mughals who were enchanted with the area and spent the summer’s there extended their informal patronage to the valley and turned all its crafts into arts. This patronage, combined with the natural artistic attitude of the people, gave a firm basis to the craftswhich, through the centuries have flourished as a cottage industry producing objects of unmatched delicacy.

Kashmiri crewel embroidery is Kashmir’s rich indigenous art, a traditional Kashmir craftsmanship and their unique skills. Crewel is basically similar to chain stitch. It is also a chain stitch done on white background, but here the motifs, mainly stylized flower, don’t cover the entire surface and the background is not embroidered upon . wool is almost invariably used in crewel work and clearways are not as elaborate as in chain stitch . The fabric is available in bolts and is sold by length.
   Done on both wall decorators and on fabric, crewel offers an enthralling variety of floral designs.
Used cheaply for drapes and upholsteries – Crewel embroidery – beautiful bold hook work is done on hand woven dasooti (double twist) cloth by Aari . 


The Process
The process of embroidery begins from a naqash (designer) and ends at the washer man and during the course of this journey; it passes through an elaborate process, each step bringing it a little closer to its ultimate impeccable look.


Weaving

A traditional, and yet a neglected step in modern day Crewel Craft is weaving the base fabric by hand. Not every artisan chooses to undergo this meticulous process of weaving raw threads of cotton over a hand loom. Those who do, are the real harbingers of the craft.


Washing:


The cloth hence created is sent to the washer, who washes, shrinks and irons this piece of cotton cloth by approximately 4 inches. The running cloth is then cut into the desired size - that of a bed spread, cushion cover, bag or curtain




DESIGN AND PERFORATION



Meanwhile, a designer, popularly known as Naqash or Naqashgir has an assigned task to draw the design over a trace paper. The Naqash then perforates the trace paper with a thin needle. This process is known as‘Trumbim’ . 



Tracing

The Naqash dips a duster in temporary ink prepared by mixing sands from the ancient Jhelum river with some kerosene traditionally, ornow with charcoal powder, and place the trace paper over the underlying fabric and passes the duster over the paper. The base cloth bears the imprint.




Embroidery





The imprinted cloth is now passed onto artisans lost my womenfolk who embroider it with the legendary Aari using the circular motions of their thumb and index finger. The embroidery stitches carefully follow the imprinted outlines and artisans secure each knot in the stitch – on eat a time so that the threads do not come off.







Washing and Ironing


One embroidered, the cloth is sent for washing so the ink comes off and then ironed over a steam roller iron.

The resulting piece, due to its stark beauty and brazen demeanor finds its place in artsy homes, where they effortlessly blend in with those dream themes and lend their charm to the abode of the art lovers and the minimalists alike.




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